seggers2013

May 26, 2020June 7, 2020

Speargun VS. Pole spear

This has been the great debate for many new underwater hunters, which is the best option? The truth is each has its own pros, cons and situations where they are the optimal choice. Spearguns and pole spears both offer a variety of options that can help broaden the effectiveness or specificity in hunting situations. This is to help any new or old spearo determine which is going to be the best option for their hunting, covering more broadly the overall benefits of each and not getting into the nitty gritty of the different styles of each.

Pole spears:

Pole spears are often the first experience that many spearo’s have with hunting. It is a very simple tool with a long pole or shaft with a tip of some sort and band at the other end to generate momentum. Some people may refer to a pole spear as a Hawaiian sling which is different from a pole spear. The Pole spear is used by the user holding the band stretched along the shaft by the user with their hand (one handed operation) while a Hawaiian sling has a handle or grip that the shaft is held by and the user uses two hands to operate. Polespears are generally more common to encounter unless you are in an area that does not allow spearguns then the likely hood of seeing a Hawaiian sling might be slightly higher.

The Pros:

Less expensive: the cost of most Pole spears will be less than that of a speargun
More compact: while the length of most polespears is greater than spearguns, many pole spears break down/ collapse into smaller pieces making for easy transport.
Simple to use: little practice needed to start shooting fish pull the band tight point it at a fish and let go, just make sure your close enough to hit it.
Multiple shots in quick succession: because of the simplicity of the pole spear if you miss your fish and it is still hanging around you generally have enough time (depending on your breath hold) to attempt another shot.
Easy to unload: something you don’t really appreciate until you have been diving with a speargun with cold hands.
Less parts: because of the simplicity there are basically 3 parts to a pole spear 1. shaft 2. band 3. tip. Its very easy to determine if there is an issue with one and replace it.

The Cons:

Limited range: for the most part your killing range is about what you can touch with the end of the spear.
Hand fatigue: this is something most people don’t realize until it happens to them, holding a loaded pole spear takes some hand strength and at the end of a diving session there may be some fish that get away because either it wasn’t fully cocked or just unable to properly release.
Lost Fish: this will largely depend on the tip but most pole spear divers start with what is known as a paralyzer tip, this is a great tip but the barbs are usually smaller and once the fish has been hit forward pressure needs to be kept on the fish to prevent it from coming off.
More difficult to maneuver: because of the long length of the pole spear (especially in areas with kelp) it can be more difficult to make tight turns or swing around to take a shot on a fish.

Spearguns in my mind are very romanticized in spearfishing and rightly so because they are the optimum tool for the job. The thought of being underwater and stalking your fish then pointing the speargun and pulling the trigger as the bands release and send the shaft flying at the fish to stop it dead in its tracks are what many spearo’s fantasize about. Like polespears there are to many different styles and configurations of guns to completely cover them all so this will be a very broad focus (obviously some of these issues can be mitigated with different set ups) but this is the short answer to the question.

The Pros: undefined

Longer range: because the shaft can be held under tension more bands can be used to propel the smaller shaft that is attached to the body of the gun.
More power: once again more or larger bands can be used to give the gun more power in propelling the shaft.
More maneuverable: because of the power in a smaller size (overall length) it is much easier to maneuver a speargun underwater and make quicker turns to take a shot.
Floppers: most spearguns come standard with a shaft that has some kind of tip that uses a flopper or floppers depending on the style of shaft, these are wings that once they have passed through the fish prevent the shaft from coming back out unintentionally. Much more reliable than a barbed paralyzer tip.
You are going to keep more fish that you hit: because of the increased range and power along with the floppers it is more likely that when you hit a fish you will keep it (you can lose fish with a speargun but less likely)
No hand fatigue: because you are not physically holding the bands under tension spearguns are much easier on the hands and fatigue is rarely a problem.

The Cons:

The Cost: while there is a wide range of prices for spearguns generally they are going to be more expensive than a Polespear.
Hard to get multiple shots on a single dive: because the speargun has to be loaded ( shaft locked into the trigger mechanism, shooting line wrapped and bands pulled back) you generally only get one shot on a fish on a single dive unless you are a quick load or have a very good breath hold.
Moving Parts: the trigger mechanism and line release are something you have to take care of and make sure are free of salt and grit to avoid miss fires or locked triggers.
Lots of parts: taking care of the speargun is always the first step to prolonging the life, things will need to get replaced, bands shooting line, tips, snubber. All common things to ware out over time and with repeated use.
Tangles: sometimes when fish are shot they still have some life in them and can swim and twist around tangling the shooting line in itself or other things rocks, coral, kelp. This takes time to untangle which could cause you to miss a fish.
Harder to Travel with: although shorter than most polespears, most spearguns don’t break down so packing them for a trip can be more difficult without specialty bags, many places also have regulations on spearfishing and guns may not be allowed. (check local regulations before bringing your speargun or polespear on a trip).

While I am sure that there are other pros and cons to both polespears and spearguns these are the ones that I find to be the most helpful in determining which to purchase. The first step will always be to evaluate your situation, what kind of diving your doing, what kind of fish you are hunting, and your budget, is it better to get a very nice polespear or a cheap speargun. No matter what its the hunter that catches the fish these are just tools we use to collect them.

March 2, 2020

Zeagle F8 Regulator Review

Zeagle is not a name in diving that is synonymous with regulators while they are better known for their BCD’s they do produce a small line of rugged hard working regulators. These regulators range in price from $329.95 for the Envoy 2 at their entry level, $484.95 for the Onyx 2 for the middle ground, and $629.95 for the F8 as their high end regulator. This is going to focus on the F8 regulator from Zeagle and my experience with this lesser known regulator.

The F8 regulator is made to be rugged and able to withstand the harshest conditions. The simple classic design takes advantage of the classic look of regulators and the simplistic no extra bells and whistles of the first stage. Zeagle does like to set their regulators apart by having 5 low pressure and 2 high pressure ports on their first stages, 4 of the low pressure ports are traditionally placed with the fifth facing directly forward I assume for more tech/sidemount applications. Zeagle like other companies has adopted the usage of color kits to personalize the regulator with an assortment of colors from standard blue, and pink to purple and red. These kits are in my opinion a little over priced but will make the regulator stand out replacing the purge cover, adjustment knob and exhaust cover.

First Stage Features:

Balanced diaphragm design and the environmentally sealed ambient chamber ensure top performance in any condition.
Redesigned environmental seal cap and yoke knob enhance ergonomics & design aesthetics.
Percision machined neoflon seat harder more reliable material, keeping you diving longer.

First Stage Materials:
Body:	Brass
O-rings:	Nitrile
Seat:	Neoflon (PCTFE)
HP Valve:	Stainless Steel

Second Stage Features:

New inhalation diaphragm provides superior tear strength and improved response time to breathing (super soft silicone molded over a low friction disk).
Improved exhaust valve ensures dryness and a lower exhalation effort.
Seat-saving orifice, compliments of Atomic Aquatics, retracts when not in use – extending the life of the breathing tube seat.
Seat comprised of soft silicone molded over a metal insert to deliver the firmness required for an airtight seal while maintaining the necessary elasticity to prevent leaking.
Redesigned front cover and inhalation effort control knob use co-molded components that provide the necessary grip, soft touch and ease of use. Available in several color kits
Zirconium-plated inlet tube and heat sink for superior corrosion resistance.
Redesigned heat sink dramatically increases surface area, aiding in the heat exchange necessary to avoid freeze-up.
Co-molded silicone mouthpiece for better fit and less jaw fatigue

Second Stage Materials:
Cover:	TPU
Case:	Nylon 12
Poppet Seat:	316 SS insert with silicone overmold
O-rings:	Nitrile
Diaphragm:	Elastomeric Polymer
Exhaust Valve:	Silicone

My experience with the F8:
This is a very well performing regulator that I would easily put in the same running as other high end regulators. It has a clean simple look, breaths well, and venturi switch and air flow adjustment are easy to use even when wearing heavy gloves for cold water. It is surprisingly light for the size of the second stage, I did add a swivel to my second stage for added comfort which is a strong recomendation for anyone who experiences jaw fatigue while diving. The only issue this has presented is the lp hose for the second stage is very long much longer than I am used to for standard regulators and the addition of a swivel added an extra 2 inches to this making it at times seem a bit excessive. Another issue that I have experienced is use of the regulator inverted can cause water to get into the second stage, by inverted i mean head down feet above the head, not lying on the back. This being a very uncommon position only affected me while playing with students while teaching in the pool.

Over all this is a good regulator that should be considered if you are looking to upgrade, it is very hardy and reliable. At a price of $629.95 this is one reg that should be thrown into the mix with other high end regulators like the Oceanic Zeo, Hollis 200LX, Aqualung Legend, and Scubapro MK25/S600. Zeagle may not be the brand you think of when regulators come to mind but they are a sleeper in this category with tough regs that are inexpensive to service, and can easily last a lifetime.

I hope this was helpful and feel free to share your own experience with the Zeagle F8 in the comments.

June 21, 2019April 4, 2021

Which Scuba Brand Makes the Best Equipment?

This may be one of the difficult answers to truly answer in the dive industry because it is subjective and always going to to be driven by personal opinion. Each dive shop will likely claim that the brand they carry has the most reliable, highest quality equipment that puts others to shame, and they will say this to sell the equipment. Some dive shops are unfortunately just like used car lots saying whatever they can to up sell you to the next item. Now most dive shops are not massive and it is impossible for any one shop to carry every brand, so most pick one, two or even three primary brands. The other dilemma is the actual number of brands I am going to focus on a few of the largest names including, Scubapro, Aqualung, Mares, and Huish Outdoors (Oceanic, Zeagle, Suunto, Atomic, Hollis). You should be able to find at least one of these brands at any dive shop that you may visit, there are others like Sherwood, Seac, and Tusa but are probably not going to be the primary brand especially for BCD’s, regulators, and Computers. Here is a brief overview of what to expect from each brand.

ScubaPro

Scubapro is probably one of the most recognizable names in the industry right now and has some equipment that stands out. The first thing to know about Scubapro is that it is most likely going to be the most expensive option. They make a very high quality product but they have little to offer in terms of middle of the road pricing. Scubapro equipment is either the more expensive low end, or the most expensive high end. Now they do produce a very high quality product that is rigorously tested and reliable but you will pay a premium. Now in terms of equipment BCD’s are really where Scubapro shines in my opinion they have many options with multiple styles and prices ranging from about $450 on the low end to over $1000 on their high end bcd. Bcd’s are also were there is going to be the largest variation between these brands. While Scubapro does make a quality computer and regulator I feel you only have two choices for each very high end or low end no middle ground, and while this is true for the bcd’s there are enough options to minimize that gap.

Aqualung

Aqualung is a company that has been around since the beginning and may be one of the most recognizable brands. In terms of over all pricing Aqualung is a little more spread evenly with very budget friendly options especially with regulators and computers, and high end regs that don’t knock the wind out of you when you hear the price. In terms of their BCD’s they have the I3 inflator system that I am not personally sold on but have met a number of people that are very happy with it. The regulators are what really stand out for me, the dive computers are actually almost identical to oceanic dive computers because they purchase from the same company oceanic does. The regulators provide a large variety of options for divers on a budget and divers looking for a high quality versatile regulator.

Mares

Mares is a very large brand that most don’t realize is as big as it is. Owned by the Head company and this partnership also owns SSI the training agency. Now this is where i find it hard to hide my opinion because in terms of dive equipment I am not overly impressed with anything from Mares. I am not a fan of the quick disconnect pockets on their bcd’s, their regulators are underwhelming, they function but I would prefer another brand first, and their computers are functional. I would have to say that of everything Mares I would have one of their low budget computers as a starter or backup. Mares in general is a great starter equipment company but I have not seen the value in their equipment beyond that. Its not that I think that they make bad gear I just believe that these other brands make better gear.

Huish Outdoors (Oceanic, Suunto, Zeagle, Atomic, Hollis)

Huish Outdoors is a Unique situation and in a dive shop you are not going to see the Huish logo most likely but they do own all of these brands, (at least an exclusive distributor for Suunto). One of the reasons I wanted to include Huish is because I like the fact that they have accumulated brands that specialize. Now for the most part each of these brands has a primary focus, most of them do dabble in other areas but are known for one primary thing. Zeagle is known for BCD’s, Suunto for Computers, Hollis for Regulators, Atomic for Regulators, and Oceanic dabbles evenly in all three but has been known as an innovator for computers for many years. Unlike the other three brands above that are distributing R&D among all aspects of equipment Huish has brands that they have acquired that have a particular focus. Most of their equipment is reasonably priced With the exception of Atomic they make very high end regulators on par with Scubapro. If you get something from one of these brands especially in their wheelhouse you know it will be very high quality for the cost.

In the end it is a personal choice which brand is best it may be situational, when picking a brand it is important to consider the long term, how easily can I service this equipment, is there a shop that I can take this equipment to if I have an issue. I this equipment going to fit the style of diving that I intend to do and fit my personal budget. The key to all of this is to determine your needs, figure out what features you want and then talk to your local dive shop professional because in all honesty no matter which brand you ultimately decide on you will have quality gear. You just want to make sure you are comfortable in that equipment and how to properly use and care for the equipment.

So in order to avoid giving a BS answer that there is no best equipment I am going to break it down into tiers High, middle, and low, in terms of price and among those name brands for my preferred for BCD, Regulator, and computer. Now keep in mind that all of these brands make quality equipment and the ultimate choice comes down to personal preference in features and access, talk with your local dive shop cause they will likely be the ones servicing your equipment.

High:
BCD: Scubapro
Reg: Atomic
Computer: Suunto/Scubapro (the G2 is a pretty amazing computer)

Middle:
BCD: Zeagle
Reg: Aqualung/Oceanic
Computer: Oceanic/Aqualung

Low:
BCD: Oceanic/Mares
Reg: Oceanic/Aqualung
Computer: Mares/Aqualung/Oceanic

May 28, 2019

What Does it Cost to Get Scuba Certified?

Taking the plunge and getting certified for many people is scary not only because it is a new experience but also because of the cost, So what does it cost to get certified? This is one of the greatest questions in the diving industry, and most commonly asked in any dive shop. No matter which agency you get certified through Padi, SSI, Naui, to name a few, all of them are providing the same fundamental training and skills. The differences will be in the format that these skills and how the information is taught. Since it is safe to say that all open water certifications no matter the agency are equivalent lets break down the what the general expected cost of an Open Water certification would be.

There are many ways to break down these cost and different shops and different agencies will vary in their prices but this is a guide to provide a general idea of how much it should cost to get scuba certified. These cost will be broken down into training (Classroom, Pool, and Open Water dives), Materials, Rental, and Personal gear. Now with all of these they will vary from shop to shop for training, rentals and personal equipment and agency to agency for materials, so i will be providing a general estimate for each of these because it may differ at your local dive shop.

Training is the most important part of the certification and will be what truly molds the experience of getting certified. It is the personal touch that the instructor provides that will shape your experience and path as a diver. The ability to provide clear instruction and knowledge for the students will leave a huge impact on new divers. This is where the true value of shopping around for your certification will matter. Finding a shop and instructor that are devoted to providing you the student with the best experience possible. As for the price this is the portion of the cost that the instructors themselves are paid from. Some shops will split the cost of classroom/ pool and open water dives, and others will provide an all in pricing. For the aspect of training expect anywhere from $200 to $350 to cover the cost of training (classroom/pool/open water dives).

Materials are completely determined by the certification agency and can vary depending on what format of program you are taking, accelerated programs will be more costly and allow students to complete a majority of classroom portion of the program at home. The three largest and most recognizable agencies Padi, SSI, and Naui materials will range from $75-$189. With these materials they are at this point in time offered as printed books to study or online digital material, SSI provides only digital material, while Padi and Naui offer printed material or digital e-learning.

Rentals are something that are absolutely necessary for open water dives unless the new diver has decided to purchase their own BCD, regulator, tanks, weights, and wetsuit. These items to purchases would quickly reach a couple thousand dollars, most new divers will rent these items for their certification, once again rentals will depend on the shop and what kind of gear is needed for the dive, wetsuits will depend on the temperature of the water, the other items will be necessary regardless. Normal expected rental cost for this equipment should be expected around $60-$150. Some shops may provide rental packages that include other gear like mask snorkel, fins that may affect this price.

Most dive shops will request or require new students to purchase their own personal gear, Mask, Snorkel, Booties, Fins, and Gloves. This is because these items are a personal fit gear that will drastically affect your diving experience if they do not fit properly. Once again these items will vary drastically in price and some shops will offer student discounts to help promote the purchase. In general expect at minimum $150 for all of your personal gear and price can go up to as high as $500. Keep in mind this is equipment necessary for scuba, made to a very high quality and made to last when taken care of properly.

In the end the price is hard to give an exact number, and when you ask a dive shop employee that is why they will hesitate to answer because there are many factors that can affect the total cost. The lowest to expect when getting certified not including personal equipment would be somewhere around $400 and the highest could be somewhere around $700 with a majority of them somewhere in between. With this being said average price all in to get certified will be somewhere in the range of $600. Personal equipment is where the larges variance in price will be in terms of personal choice, the Training, rental, and materials will be pre determined by the shop. The most important thing to consider will be what will work best for you, dive shops and dive professionals will provide advice for what the best route to take is for the goals you wish to meet.

May 28, 2019

Oceanic Jetpack BCD Review

The Oceanic Jetpack BCD is a bit of an anomaly, it is a one size fits all travel BCD that strives to slim down all of our favorite aspects of back inflate BCD’s into one convenient package. The Jetpack BCD comes in two different packages one thats just the BCD and the complete package which includes a detachable backpack. The gimmick of the Jetpack is that this BCD transforms from a bag able to fit all of your personal gear, to a light weight travel style bcd with a large amount of personal adjustment.

In terms of what this bcd is designed for it does function well, everything about it makes sense and performs the way it should. With that being said i’m just not in love with this bcd. I am a fan of all of the features, many of them are clever and makes sense in their purpose, but it just doesn’t feel the way I want a travel bcd to feel. Lets start by covering the features of this bcd. The Jetpack is designed as a travel bcd, but not the traditional travel bcd. Instead of purely going for the most light weight and basic design to cut weight for checked baggage, the Jetpack does cut weight but doesn’t cut as much retaining some of the many comforts of a standard bcd.

The breakdown/set up

The jet pack is made as a one size fits all bcd that almost completely comes apart, removing the cumber bun weight pockets and storing them in the zip away rear panel that contains the bladder, inflator, tank straps, cumber bun and weight pockets when in the travel mode. In this configuration there is a backpack that can attach to the broken down bcd and can be used as a carry on bag for airline travel. This system does work pretty we’ll and the detachable backpack is very large and has a great amount of storage space. The set up is fairly simple, the rear panel unzips and rolls up secured with a few pieces of velcro the bladder extends beyond the edges, the cumber bun, weight pockets are attached and the shoulder straps are unclipped from the base of the bag and attached to the weight pockets. The most difficult part is threading the cumber bun through the hidden loops and adjusting the shoulder straps for personal comfort lengthening and shortening the nylon webbing. The cumber bun does attach using velcro attaching to itself appears to be surprisingly secure but I can only assume that over time the velcro will give out. But for the time being it appears to be working just fine.

What I like:

The truth is this BCD does really work well, the modular pieces feel secure when attached and provide an abundance of adjustability. One feature that I am very happy to be included is the cumber bun, most travel bcd’s this is the first feature to be eliminated in order to cut weight. For me it provides an additional level of security and makes the bcd feel like it is wrapping around me more. They also employ a different stomach strap system from other Oceanic BCD’s instead of the traditional pull from the center out the straps are laced back and use a pul from the sides to center, This is a feature i have seen on many Aqualung bcd’s. The back inflation style makes it a very comfortable dive and uses high quality durable materials that dry relatively quickly. The materials never felt over saturated with water leaving me wondering if it had dried fully before packing. The last thing I am very fond of is the backpack, this thing is great. Weather it is attached or detached this thing has a ton of space, pocket for laptop, many interior mesh pockets for storage of small items, two exterior pockets, straps on the sides great for sandals or beach towels, and zips completely open which can be nice when you are unpacking or looking for something in the bag.

What I don’t like:

For the most part I am pretty happy with the Jetpack, it functions how a bcd should and has many features that I wish a traditional travel bcd would have, but it is not perfect at least not for me. I am not a tall person and the length of this bcd is a little too much, I feel like no matter how much i play with the adjustments that I cannot get it to sit perfectly for me because I have a short torso. I have also found that the placement of the deflator is just not right for me I find my self having to adjust my body positioning more while diving to deflate. This could be because of the length of the bcd and how it fits my body or just that I am so used to my primary bcd I need more time to adjust. Another small issue I have is the weight, for a travel bcd the jetpack is a little heavy, about 6.25 lbs which is lighter than a traditional bcd but also heavier than most lightweight travel bcd’s sitting somewhere in the middle. The salvation for this issue is that it packs into a backpack and can be used as a carry on so weight is not as much as a factor in the long run. My final issue is with the placement of the tank strap, I understand that for the length of the bcd it has been set low to prevent swing of the tank but I wouldn’t mind an additional strap a little higher for a more secure hold, it does have a valve strap that can aid in some stability but I personally prefer a double strap system.

In the end it is going to depend on what you are looking for in a travel bcd, if you are looking for something that is very adjustable, and can be used as a carry on this is a perfect option. If you are looking to cut as much weight as possible then it may not be the best option. It does function as a high quality bcd with durable materials and I experienced no technical issues. The price is a little high for a travel bcd with the Jetpack Complete (includes backpack) coming in at $599 while most travel bcd’s are around the $450 price range. The one size fits all feature may be a bit exaggerated not the most ideal for those who are on the shorter side but as a bcd that could be an extra for a friend not needing to worry if it fits is a very nice option. Over all I do like the Jetpack, it functions well as a bcd and has many clever features but I am not in love with it.

March 29, 2019

Diving Masks Too Many To Choose From

The Scuba diving mask is the most integral park of diving equipment and usually one of the first pieces of equipment a diver buys. There are no shortage of mask to choose from with a variety of options, from skirt color, number of lenses, lens colors and strap styles. Despite all of these variations the most important feature of any mask is fit and comfort. The fit and comfort of a mask is a personal decision but these other options for mask style can help narrow down which masks to start with when choosing a mask.

Skirt Color:

Clear Silicone Tusa HD mask

The first and most obvious variations of a mask is the skirt colors. All mask intended for diving use high quality silicone that is made to be durable, soft and long lasting. With clear silicone mask they allow a lot of light into the mask providing a wide open feeling, this is a very common option for starting divers. Some diver may notice that allowing the light into the mask may cause a visible reflection inside the mask which may be distracting. Black or solid colored mask prevent the excess of light through the skirt of the mask, this can cause a feeling of tunnel vision which may be detrimental for those that are susceptible to claustrophobia. Free divers, spear fishermen, and photographers tend to prefer solid colored or black silicone mask because they block this light and allow for the eyes to adjust to lower light conditions much quicker.

Number of Lenses:

The lens is a very integral part of the diving mask and provides the template for which the shape of the mask is formed. The two most common mask lenses are either a single lens design, a dual lens design and a panoramic design. All are effective and functional as a mask lens and provide their own positive and negative aspects. The single lens design provides an unobstructed field of vision, allowing for a wide open feeling for the user, it also usually brings the frame of the mask lower on the bridge of the nose that for some people can cause uncomfortable contact that could become very uncomfortable. The dual lens design generally will allow more nose space because of the separation of the lenses that can be more comfortable for some, this separation of the lenses can cause a obstruction or blind spot that can be noticeable for some divers. The panoramic design provide peripheral windows on the side of the mask and can be paired with single and dual lens mask. This style of mask increase the field of view for divers while also increasing the air volume inside the mask. Some divers prefer this more because of the open field of view.

Framed or Frameless:

Frameless mask are growing in popularity, these mask remove the plastic frame from the design and have the silicone wrapped directly around the lens. This design is popular because it reduces the volume of the mask and potential for parts that can break. The downside of the frameless mask is in instances of prescription lenses there are only the option to have lenses bonded into the mask. Traditional framed mask in some styles have replaceable lenses that can be installed to accommodate standard vision correction. Some of these mask designs can be either very high volume or low volume in design covering a very wide assortment of styles.

High or Low Volume:

In diving the volume or air space in a mask is something that has evolved since its inception where mask originally had a very high volume with large windows for a greater viewing space. As technology has evolved the mask and the rise of popularity in free diving the low volume mask has increased in popularity. Low volume mask require a lower amount of air and effort to clear the mask when flooded and equalize the airspace, which is very important when free diving, but not so much when diving. Because divers have a supply of air it is ok to use more air to equalize the air space or clear the mask when flooded. Both are suitable options for divers, but those that might be looking for a dual purpose ideal for free diving might look for a mask with a lower volume.

Lens Color:

Lens colors are options traditionally taken on by spear fishermen, using colored lenses to help the eyes adjust to low light conditions, when looking under ledges and into crevices. The most common lens colors are clear, amber/yellow, and HD lenses. Clear lenses are the most common and virtually all mask come with this standard option. The amber/yellow lenses are found in spear fishing/ free diving low volume mask, these mask like yellow lenses for snow skiing help the eyes adjust to low light conditions, ideal for searching for fish in holes, crevices and under ledges. the HD lens is a pigmented lens that is used to restore color lost with depth. These lenses often have a mirrored appearance from the front and generally have a red or rose pigment to the lens itself. Lens color is a less common option for most mask designs and generally are specific to higher quality mask designs.

Mask Straps:

The silicone mask strap is the most widely offered standard for diving mask, some select mask offer neoprene mask straps. The silicone mask strap commonly offers more easily adjustable straps for quick and fine adjustments, while the neoprene mask although nicer for longer hair can be adjusted but not as easily or on the fly. With this being said any mask can be outfitted with a neoprene strap either by replacing the entire mask strap or a cover that slides onto the mask strap.

Conclusion:

With many different considerations in choosing a mask it is important to note that the fit and comfort of the mask are the most important factors. These additional options of silicone color, number of lenses, frameless/framed, high/low volume, lens color, and type of strap these are secondary considerations when choosing a mask, there are many mask out there and a mask to fit each face.

January 9, 2019

Scubapro Hydros BCD Review

The Scubapro Hydros BCD is a step in a new direction in terms of what a BCD can be. The scuba pro Hydros has been designed from the ground up using a new material to BCD’s Monoprene. This monoprene material similar to rubber/silicone gives the bcd a grip and flexibility that is unheard of in any other BCD. In addition to the new material the Hydros is made to be a versatile cold water and travel bcd, with removable weight pockets and a simple harness system for travel. This is truly a unique approach to a bcd that will likely have copycats in the near future.

Features:

Monoprene Material
Travel harness
12 lb quick release weight pockets X2
5 lb trim pockets X2
Scubapro Air 2 integrated octo (BPI optional)
40 lb lift bladder
Multiple color kits
Pocket accessory options
Carry backpack

The Material: Monoprene is a material that is not new to the diving industry, for a long time it has been used in diving fins as a durable rubber material, with plenty of flex. This material is also very grippy, and being used in a bcd solves the problem of the shift. The shift is a common problem divers have when at depth or at the surface when the material of the bcd does not grip to the user and shifts requiring the user to adjust and shimmy the bcd back into place. With this new material the monoprene of the hydros sticks to the user and eliminates the possibility of the bcd shifting. Another added benefit of the material is its lack of water retention, the only material on the bcd that may hold water is the webbing and the bladder, the bcd will usually dry out completely 15-20 min after exiting the water making it ideal for travel and packing up into a car after a dive.

All around BCD: The hydros is a true chameleon of the bcd world made to be tough and rugged with plenty of lift and weight capacity, and capable of transforming into a lightweight bcd ideal for travel. Now don’t get me wrong when this bcd has some weight to it, the monoprene material makes it one of the heavier bcd’s in my opinion coming in at a almost 11 lbs with the pockets attached. But if you are planning on traveling with the hydros it also comes with a harness system that quickly replaces the pockets with a little practice. Now this harness system is very simple no pockets just webbing a couple D rings and clips, don’t forget you still have the trim pockets on the back of the bladder for weight integration, although it will not be quick release. Despite that this is an easy way to cut significant weight from the bcd when traveling. So for divers looking for a bcd that is ideal for cold water diving and travel the hydros bcd checks all the boxes.

The accessories: There are many additional features that come standard with the Hydros BCD, travel harness system, and a carry backpack large enough to fit the bcd, regulator, mask snorkel inside and a pair of the Scubapro Go fins on the outside of the bag. While these are welcome additions to any standard bcd package i would like to discuss the additional accessory mounts for the Hydros. The first and most notable accessory are the color kits: Blue, yellow, pink, orange, and purple The men’s bcd comes standard with black and the women’s bcd comes standard with white. These kits that replace the weight pocket coverings are a nice way to accessorize and personalize a bcd. In addition

hydros accessories — Top: Color kits, Ninja Pocket, Thigh Pocket Bottom: Bungee mount, D-ring mount, Knife mount

to these color kits there are also attachable accessories for knife mount (specific to scubapro knifes), D-ring mount, bungee mount (large and small), ninja pocket, and thigh pocket. I find most of these additions as cash grabs from Scubapro for not intentionally adding useful accessories. While the look of the weight pockets are slick and clean looking there are only functional for carrying weights without additional accessories, no pockets for storage, necessary additional hardware to mount a knife, and D-ring mount is largely underwhelming. There are 4 possible mounting locations on the weight pockets for these additional accessories, but there are no mounting options available for the travel harness for these or any accessory mounts. My least favorite of these accessories are by far the pockets, I have never been a fan of a roll up pocket like the ninja pocket, to have something flapping by my leg when I need to store something away. While the hidden pocket of the traditional bcd design is my least favorite pocket type, the thigh pocket has now taken the lead. While it is secured and not flopping about to have to secure it around the leg and have it attach to the bcd using a clip makes me wonder why someone wouldn’t just have a pocket attached to their wetsuit instead. But then again that is my personal opinion of this style of pocket.

Pros:

Quick drying Monoprene material
removable weight pockets & travel harness
Travel backpack
40 lb lift capacity
Optional BPI or Air 2 alternate

Cons:

Accessories
Not to be worn without Wetsuit/ rash guard

For a bcd that starting price is $916 with standard BPI or $1049 with Air 2, it is a little frustrating that simple convenience accessories are add ons and not standard. While personally i find many if not all of these accessories useless in my style of diving, I see where some divers could find use in them. The knife mount I find annoying because it is only useful for proprietary use with their own brand of knife, which i understand, but also believe there should be a standard mount distance with all knife and bcd brands, but that is just a distant dream. My other frustration comes from the pockets while the ninja pocket is not my personal ideal, it is the thigh pocket that I truly have distaste for. To consider donning and doffing this bcd that is well known for its comfort and fit and taking an additional step to clip a pocket around my leg so it does not flap about during the dive for the sole purpose of having additional storage space seems ridiculous to me as a purchase and an optional accessory.

In conclusion the Hydros is still a high quality BCD, that with its new Monoprene material provides a comfortable, quick drying bcd that sticks to the user with no shifting, for a truly secure fit. Although it sits at the higher end of the price spectrum for most BCD’s it proves its value with its versatility and quality.

January 7, 2019January 7, 2019

Oceanic Pro Plus X Review

With the drastic strides in technology of dive computers and the growing efforts by every major brand to put out the latest and greatest Oceanic has managed for at least the moment to edge out the competition. For years the iconic Pro Plus line has been a staple of the Oceanic brand there is no surprise that they have managed to put out a dive computer that is the complete package. The Pro Plus series has always been a favorite of many divers despite brand devotion because of the large easy to read display popular with aging divers looking to ease the stress of the traditional tiny displays of most computers.

Like many of the other newest computers on the market the Pro Plus X has all of the standard features of an air integrated console, air and nitrox compatibility, water activation mode, alarm settings for safety stop, deep stop, gas time remaining, and many more. Standard to the Oceanic line of computers it uses a dual algorithm that can be changed between DSAT & Pelagic Z+. For Full Specs on the Pro Plus X visit Oceanic’s website with this Link.

What Makes the Pro Plus X Special?

The Pro Plus X was one the first computer to use TFT (Thin Film Transistor) to allow for a vibrant full color display that is readable in direct sunlight and glare. It is one of the first computers from oceanic to use a Lithium Ion rechargeable batteries. Bluetooth capable and able to download directly to the diver log app with no chords. Finally in my opinion one of the easiest and intuitive menus with 4 button navigation for complete control. Now at this point in time it is standard for high end dive computers with full color screens to have TFT, rechargeable batteries and bluetooth capability. In terms of air integrated console computers the Oceanic Pro Plus X is clearly a trend setter, and the beginning of a new wave of high quality dive computers for divers that want bright easy to read dive computers.

Pros:

Large easy to read display
TFT (thin film transistor) screen
Rechargeable battery
Bluetooth capability
4 button navigation
Intuitive menue system
Quick disconnect on hose
Digital Compass

Cons:

Price $1449.95
Console design

With the current movement of the dive industry the price is not totally uncalled for it does provide a high quality product that is very easy to use and progresses the brand of the Pro Plus computer. While it is launching oceanic into the high quality dive computer the Pro Plus X is priced a little high compared to comparable computers on the current market, it would be a much better selling computer if it were priced around $1000 dollars and would be an absolutely worth while purchase at that price especially as an upgrade for the Pro Plus 3.

As technology continues to advance more and more divers are adopting a more simplified regulator and total diving system ideal for travel and cutting weight and reducing hoses when applicable. Because this is a console mounted computer it is being left in the dust by computers like the Scubapro G2 a wireless air integrated wrist computer. I believe if the Pro Plus X were adapted to a wireless air integrated wrist computer it would be a the computer to have.

In conclusion if you are looking for a bright bold console computer the Oceanic Pro Plus X hits the nail on the head. Everything functions just the way it should, the menus are simple and easy to navigate, the screen is bright and legible even in direct sunlight (i keep mine at 10% brightness) and underwater is a dream to use and get all the information I need at a quick glance. This computer may not be for everyone largely because of the price but is still a very high quality computer worth considering if your looking to upgrade.

January 7, 2019June 29, 2019

Zeagle Stiletto BCD Review

Zeagle is a brand that is well known for its high end equipment, especially the BCD’s. Up until recently Zeagle has been known for BCD’s being exclusively back inflate, recently Zeagle has released their first vest inflation bcd the Halo. Most of the time when divers hear the name Zeagle they think of the Ranger, and Zena a women’s specific bcd, but this review looks to evaluate one of the lesser known classics from Zeagle the Stiletto.

The Zeagle Stiletto is a back inflation BCD that has the Zeagle patented rip chord weight system. Most people are more familiar with Zeagle’s ranger BCD and the Stiletto is a slimmed down version of the standard ranger, with a less heavy duty bladder. The general Specs for the Stiletto are as follows:

Dry Weight: 7.4 lbs
Lift: 35lb
Weight capacity:
24lb Ripcord System
16lb Rear weight pockets

Like many of the Zeagle BCD lines the stiletto has interchangeable and replaceable parts including cummerbund, shoulders and back pad. The double tank straps are moveable to accommodate shorter tanks and the rear weight pockets can be removed and replaced if deemed necessary. I found these adjustable options on the Stiletto to allow me to customize a standard bcd to fit my personal preferences.

There are Two key features that in my opinion put the Zeagle line of BCD’s above others. The first is the iconic rip chord weight system that allows for the quick release of integrated weights with a single hand pull. Many other bcd designs use a dual pocket release system requiring the user to have both hands free to release all integrated weights. The other unique feature for Zeagle bcd’s are the quick screw inflator with standard hose attachment. This feature allows for the user to unscrew the bcd inflator and attach a hose in order to flush salt and grime out of the bcd bladder more easily, and replace the bcd inflator when repairs are needed.

Pros:

Easily adjustable parts for custom fit
Adequate amounts of D-rings
Rip chord weight systems
Easily replaceable inflator
Inflator hose attachment
Double tank strap
Removable rear weight pouches
Custom color options (also available for Ranger and Zena)

Cons:

Smaller Lift Capacity (35 lbs) Adequate for warm water diving but might not be enough for some instances of cold water diving.
Mesh weight Pouches (sold separately from BCD)
Re-lacing the weight pocket system is not intuitive

My larges problem comes down to the mesh weight pouches not being included with the BCD. Although they are not absolutely necessary they do come in handy with using smaller increment weights mostly 1 lb weights, especially bullet weights because they can fall through the rip chord pockets without the mesh pouch. the pouches do come in handy when carrying weights especially if you are using the same amount of weight and transporting them often.

The weight pocket system despite being very convenient and reliable, is not very intuitive when re-lacing the rip chord system. There have been numerous encounters with divers that unfamiliar with the system laced the rip chord system improperly making the system ineffective and dangerous to use. But because dropping ones weights is not a common occurrence so I do not see this as a big issue as long as proper instruction is given when the BCD is purchased.

Overall this is a great mid to high quality bcd compared to those on the current market. Retail price starts around $630.

September 3, 2018September 3, 2018

Zeagle Scope Mono Review

The Scope line of mask from Zeagle is their first ever release of any masks. While Zeagle is most well known for their high quality rugged BCD’s and along with the recent release of the Zeagle Recon Fins they have broken ground into the soft gear market.

The Scope line of dive masks includes the Dual and Mono masks. The obvious difference between the two is the number of lenses, the dual is a two lens mask while the mono is a single lens mask. Some of the features of each mask include:

Scope Dual:

Replaceable lenses
Color lens frame kit options
Standard silicone straps

Scope Mono:

Frameless mask design
Low volume
Elastic soft ski goggle style strap standard

The straps for the masks can be interchangeable using a Allen screw design similar to the Zeagle recon fin straps.

Now while I have been fortunate enough to test both mask I have much more experience with the Scope Mono Mask. While mask are a personal fit everything said is subject to my opinion and personal experience with the mask and may be different for another person.

What I like about the Zeagle Scope Mono mask, because of the single lens design this mask provides a very wide field of view giving the person waring it a very open feeling for a black silicone mask. There is a very wide set nose pocket on the mask providing extra space for those with larger noses despite the single lens design, I have a moderately large nose and found only making contact from the bridge when I excessively suck air from the mask or am unable to equalize the airspace. For those with excessively large noses i would recommend the Scope Dual. I was skeptical of the mask strap but found it fairly easy to adjust and with the amount of stretch never felt excessively tight.

Problems I have with the Zeagle Scope mono, the first issue i noticed with the mask was that it was relatively narrow for my face. I was still able to get the mask to seal on my face but did feel narrow at least compared to my goto mask the Oceanic Shadow. I also found that with the Scope Mono if i had neglected to shave for a couple of days the mask would begin to leak excessively, this was a annoying problem during a dive but easy to avoid once i figured out the cause. Another issue that was easily remedied was the attached snorkel keeper on the mask strap. Fortunately the snorkel keeper is removable unlike some other ones on similarly designed mask straps. I found all of these problem to be minor issues and easily dealt with.

Overall I very much enjoyed using the Zeagle Scope Mono mask, it is a comfortable low volume mask with a wide field of view that had a surprisingly comfortable strap for diving with and without a hood. This is definitely a mask that I will be adding to my active rotation of mask.

Check out the Video Review on Youtube Click Here